from Tbilisi via Mzcheta and Gergeti to Gudauri - Caucasian summer 2024 - 7
from Gudauri via Gori to Kutaissi
from Kutaissi to Batumi
from Batumi via Borjomi to Achalziche
excursion to Vardzia
from Achalziche in Georgia to Yerevan in Armenia
excursion to Etschmiadsin
excursion to Garni and Geghard
from Yerevan to Goris including visits to Chor Virap and Noravank
excursions to Chndsoresk and Tatev
from Goris to Sewan
from Sewan via Dilijan to Haghpat
from Haghpat in Armenia to Tbilisi in Georgia
Tbilisi and back home
22.07.2024 - from Tbilisi via Mzcheta and Gergeti to Gudauri
Today we drive north into the mountains to Kazbegi near the Russian border. But first we head to Mzcheta [↗].
Our first stop is the Jvari Monastery [↗], one of the most important churches in Georgia. Quite a number of tourists are coming and going, but we and all the others are too early. The local people tell us that the church doesn't open until 10 am. So we just enjoy the view, visit the outside and leave.
Our next stop is just down the hill and we have already seen the church from above. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral [↗] is the most important in Georgia, as this is where Jesus' clothes are said to be buried.
From the large central parking lot, you have to walk through a shopping street, as I know it mainly from Asia. Many of the shops are just about to open.
In this church, it's allowed to take photos and there are many opportunities to do so. The area around the cathedral looks nice at the first glance but has nothing interesting to offer at second glance. There are several other churches in the city, but you have to walk a bit to reach them.
We continue our drive northward. On the way to the Ananuri fortress [↗] we make a very brief stop at the Shinwali reservoir [↗] just for a few pictures. There used to be a parking lot here, but now there are dozens of stalls trying to sell souvenirs. The busses have to stop along the road, blocking the cars that have managed to get one of the remaining parking spaces.
Ananuri fortress is just a few minutes away. The best view is from the bridge right before you reach the fortress. Just make sure that you either look or walk. There are large holes in the footpath and you certainly don't want to sprain an ankle.
Also use a fast shutter speed, as the bridge shakes significantly when a truck drives over it. Somehow it is questionable whether it will last longer than the next 3 years. It urgently needs renovation.
Inside the fortress is a church (nice, even most frescoes have been destroyed by a fire a few hundred years ago), a few other buildings, and a tower that you can climb for a better view. However, the climb is something between adventurous and dangerous. In any case, I don't do it. The view couldn't be better than the one from the bridge anyway. The pictures that the travel guide shows me later prove me right.
Speaking of trucks: There are quite a lot heading north towards Russia and as the road is ascending, we often have to slow down. That cows are blocking the street now and then doesn't make it any better.
We have lunch at a roadside restaurant. To save some time we order a common meal together, and everyone chooses what they like. There's plenty of food and drinks for just 5 Euro, which is about the price of a beer on the restaurant mile in Tbilisi.
The river along the road doesn't carry much water at the moment, but you can already see what's going on here when the snow melts in the mountains. White water rafting is offered at various places.
We continue our journey on this so-called Georgian Military Road [↗], passing by Gudauri where we will stay for the night. But first, we drive directly to Kazbegi and from there to the Gergetier Trinity Church [↗]. Let's hope the weather improves because at the moment it's foggy and raining.
The route is constantly uphill and the view is fantastic. Gaudari [↗] is a booming town. New houses, hotels, and apartment blocks are being built everywhere. In winter, it must be like the big ski resorts in the Alps. A few kilometers earlier I saw construction work along the road, and in a few years, the crazy traffic could be rerouted around the village.
From here on, it's stop-and-go and people drive like maniacs. The road is barely wide enough for two cars, and the trucks and buses sometimes have to use the other lane to get around the narrow switchbacks. Nevertheless, passenger cars try to overtake, leading to total roadblocks. It's not just Georgian drivers, but also many Russians, Azerbaijanis, and others.
By the way, we are above 2200 meters height and still climbing. The pass is finally at 2385 meters.
Shortly before we reach Kazbegi we come to the next traffic jam. This time all the trucks have to leave the road, most probably to declare their goods. Again it's a 2 lane road used by 3 cars. This time our bus also has to be with the overtakers.
In Kazbegi we have to change to four-wheel drive minivans as our bus cannot drive up the mountain. The road to the church is repaired in the meantime so that it's possible again to drive up with regular passenger cars as well. You can also walk or hire a horse. However, walking up the road is not something I would recommend either way.
In the meantime, it started to rain again, and on top the church is covered in scaffolding. I doubt that I will keep many photos of the church. Photos inside are not allowed, but it's so dark that it wouldn't work anyway. So, I photograph a bit the scenery.
On the way back, the sun occasionally shines through the clouds and the landscape looks great again. Unfortunately, it is not possible to stop the bus anywhere. Taking photos through the wet windows is not an option either - at least not for me. This is the first day on which I think that a special photo tour in smaller cars would have advantages.
At least I was able to convince our guide to make a stop at the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument. This is also very touristy, but I mainly take photos of the landscape anyway.
